Emerald Cut Ring

This project is from Stage 7 of the Silver program at Jewellery Training Solutions, a stage dedicated to learning settings for various shaped stones. I know I said this last time, but these projects are difficult! This one started out very well, but then went rapidly downhill once I got to the polishing stage.

My goal was to be finished with this program by the end of the year, but I got busy with holiday orders (a wonderful problem to have - thank you to all of my wonderful customers) and I’m trying to spread my time between this and my engraving, which is coming along. I’ll give an update on that shortly. My new goal is to have this program finished by mid-March, before I get busy with shows (hopefully there will be shows).

What were the challenges?

Making the setting was difficult, but with the prong setting it’s a little more forgiving in sizing than when making a bezel setting. I was thrilled it worked out well the first try! I probably had the most difficulty when soldering on the prongs, getting them straight. I think I had to redo each one several times to get it right. Then, when I was polishing the ring after setting the stone, I realized that the solder joint in the setting seat had opened. I tried to solder it with the stone in place since it is a cubic zirconia, but the stone shattered. Luckily I had one more stone!

Where could I improve?

Overall I’m quite happy with how it turned out, after the little stone catastrophe. The area on the side of the setting by the shoulders need to be polished better - I’m still trying to figure out how to effectively get in the small spaces.

What did I learn?

I am gaining more confidence with heat control while soldering, something I was really lacking before starting this program. I’m also really understanding how to make these tapered, shaped bezels. I love learning all of these different techniques for setting the stones, too. So many ways to reach the same end.