Eternity Ring

This is the sixth project from Stage 8 of the Apprentice program at Jewellery Training Solutions, a stage dedicated to learning advanced cutting skills and advanced setting construction. This is probably the quintessential project that motivated me to make jewelry, although it is something that I never, ever believed I would be making myself. I have always had a special affinity for eternity rings.

What were the challenges?

Every single step of this project was a real challenge, and it took me four days to complete it. The “easiest” part was making the ring shank to exact specifications, and the most challenging part was cutting the ajour work on the back. The precision needed for ever step of this project made it extra difficult.

Where could I improve?

I could improve every single part of this project except for the size of the original blank! The ajour work is rough. I tried cleaning it up with a graver, but it still looks rougher than I would like, especially under a microscope. There are some inconsistencies in the size of the prongs, there are some stray saw marks where the saw bounced out of the cut, I set the stones a little bit too low, the cuts on the sides could be cleaner…. I started setting the stones using one technique, but wasn’t happy with how that was going so after four stones I tried a different technique which I was much happier with, so they are a little mismatched if you look closely. As I said, every step. But I’m happy with this one, and they will only get better (I hope).

What did I learn?

I learned SO much from this project, and it really was the culmination of so much of what we have learned in the program. I need a lot more practice on all of it, though. A tip I learned, too, which was so helpful was to put the bur in a pin vice to make the small adjustments needed when setting the stones. So much more control that way! I also learned that I am very thankful for my microscope, although it makes every single flaw stand out and makes me want to make the entire project under the scope (I didn’t)!